Here is a list of some of the houses in certain townlands, their occupier and their value. This information came from the Hugh Irvine Collection which is available at Newry and Mourne Museum.

Townland       Occupier          Valuation       Remarks

Lurganconary         Robert Davidson                   8.0.0           Large farm

Greencastle              Elizabeth McIlroy                7.12.0

Benagh Upr.             David Moore                          15.16.9

Ballymaderphy       John Moore                            10.12.0

”                                    Arthur Davidson                    5.7.0

Lisnacree                  George Huston                      19.1.3

Mullertown             Henry McNeily                      7.14.11

”                                    Henry Atkinson                     19.9.0

Glassdrummond    Robert Thompson                8.8.10

”                                     Isaac McNeely                       17.9.3

”                                     Leonard Watson                   12.18.3

Moneydarraghmore    Lt. Henry McNeilly              8.16.0

Ballyveamore                Charles Moore                      4.15.0

Moneydarraghbeg       Richard McNeilly

George McNeilly                  4.18.11

Robert McNeilly                   7.4.8

Ballymartin                   Arthur Atkinson

Richard Atkinson                 2.12.3

Maghereagh                   Mrs. Matthews                      13.4.10

Drumcrow                       Christopher Marmion        11.2.1

Dunavan                           John Moore                           22.0.4                             New house

Drummondoney            Anne Thomspon                   9.17.0

Leitrim                               William Walmsley

Margaret Walmsley

Ballymageough              James Moore

Aughnahoory                  John Walmsley                     11.1.0

Mrs Hayden                           10.12.2

Aughnaloopy                  John Moore                            3.15.11

Ballymagart                     Eliza Walmsley

Magheramurphy           Thomas Gibson Henry       25.9.0

Derryogue                        John Walmsley                      7.1.11

William Nicholson

Thomas Nicholson               6.2.7

John Moore                            13.10.7

Joseph Nicholson                4.1.9

Dunavil                            James Irwin                            3.17.7

Ballynahatten                David Moore                          5.10.1

Rev. J. F. Close                      76.10.10

Cranfield                          John Chesney

Robert Davidson                   4.13.1

Joseph Moore                         8.8.8                              About 15 acres

Robert Moore Small            9.1.2

Rev. John McIlwain             14.6.9

Glassdrumman            Catherine Hamilton              5.14.0

Moneydarraghbeg      John McKibben                      3.14.0

Ballykeel                         Thomas Stevenson               3.10.0

William Boyd & Bros            4.15.0

Francis Orr                               4.3.0

Robert Trimble                       3.17.0

John Walmsley                       16.7.0

William Fitzpatrick                3.10.0

Maghareagh                   James Trimble                        4.0.0

Kilkeel                              James Walmsley                    11.13.0

Dunavan                          Bernard McCullagh              6.15.0

Rev. Gustavus Warner       10.13.0

John Doyle                               3.18.0

Drumindony                  Bernard McCullagh              4.17.0

Ballyardle                        Captain Chesney                   12.3.0

James Marmion                     7.3.0                              Two houses and offices

8.0.0

Aughnahoory                Hugh Stephenson                 4.0.0

William Hanna                       3.8.0

Ballymagart                 George Nesbitt                      5.2.0

Mrs McDonnell                     13.8.0

Derryogue                    Thomas McKee                     6.0.0

Dunavil                           Henry Reilly                           4.0.0

Ballymageough            Samuel Wilson                       3.8.0

Mourne Park                Viscount Kilmorey               82.0.0

Grange                             John Patterson                      6.0.0

The vast majority of the people in Mourne would have lived in small rural cottages or houses situated along the main street in the town. Hanna’s Close is a good way to get feel for what life was like living in small rural cottages. This cluster of cottages were built in the 1600s by the Hanna’s who came to Ireland from Scotland around 1640. The dwellings were all built close together with only one door facing into the close and a few small windows at the back. This was to protect them from attacks. The Close is situated in the townland of Aughnahoory and in 1860 there were eight families of Hanna’s living in the Close.

Those families who were better off would have lived in bigger houses of higher value and those who were very wealthy would have lived in ‘Gentleman’s Seats’.

Gentleman’s Seats in Mourne in 1823

Heartsfort : Thomas Pottinger

Jane-Brook : James Marmion

Kilmorey House : Viscount Kilmorey

Loyalty Farm : Lt. Col. G. Matthews

Mournepark : John Moore

Prospect : Alexander Chesney

Summer-Seat : Rev. Lucas Waring

Shannon-Grove : Francis Moore

White Water Mill : W. C. Emerson

Bellhill : John Waring

[Info. on Gentleman’s Seats from the Hugh Irvine Collection]

In an 1810 rental the townlands of Mourne in the Kilmorey Estate were as follows;

‘Aghyoghill, Aughnahorry, Ballintur, Ballygowan, Ballykeel Beg, Ballyveagh More, Corcreaghan, Cranfield, Carginagh, Derryogue, Drumcro, Drumindoney, Drummon, Glassdrumman, Greencastle, Leitram, Magheramurphy, Magheragh, Maghery, Moneydoragh Beg, Moneydorragh More, Moyad and Tullyframe.’

The founder of the Kilmorey family’s Irish estates was Sir Nicholas Bagnal. He was granted the lands in Newry and Mourne in the 1500s. In 1673 his heir died leaving no male issue. His lands were transferred to his cousin Robert Needham.

The 4th Earl of Kilmorey

The earldom of Kilmorey was created for General Francis Needham in 1822. His son Jack Francis became the 2^nd Earl and an absentee landlord when the estate was left in the hands of his three trustees. The 3^rd Earl inherited the lands and title in 1880 and made Ireland one of his permanent residences.  He, his wife Ellen Constance Baldock and their family spent a lot of time in Mourne.

Mourne Park House and a map of the Mourne Park Demesne

Mourne Park House was the family residence of the Needham Family. It was originally built in the early 19th Century as a two story building by Robert Needham, 11th Viscount Kilmorey. A third story was added sometime after 1820 and more extensions followed in 1859. It was listed as a ‘Gentleman’s Seat’ in 1812 and a description of its grounds were as below in 1864;

‘Mourne Park, the beautiful estate of the Earl of Kilmorey, the woods and grounds of which clothe the base of Knockchree (Hill of the Deer), 1013 ft. crowned on the summit with an observatory. Here the White Water is crossed…’ [1]

Mourne Park House.

The earldom of Kilmorey was created in 1822 for General Francis Needham (1748-1832). His son Jack Francis Needham inherited the title and became the 2nd Earl of Kilmorey after his father’s death. He was renowned for being a very eccentric and colourful person and this lead his father to leave the Mourne Park estate to his three trustees. As a result Kilmorey became an absentee landlord, with little interest in spending time in Ireland. The trustees of the estate were all married to three sisters of the 2nd Earl. [2]

The staff and servants of Mourne Park House.

In 1860, a son of one of the trustee’s Octavius Newry Knox carried out a detailed report on the estates belonging to Lord Kilmorey. In this report we can get a better picture of what life was like in Mourne at the time. Knox details the conditions of the land, lists the schools present in the area, discusses the use of sea wrack, along with including descriptions of prominent buildings in Mourne at the time. He also details the state of Mourne Park house and its grounds. The Lord Killmorey at the time was an absentee landlord and this is evident as the report suggests that the house is falling into disrepair. The Mourne Park mansion and premises were held by Captain Ramsay. Knox states the internal woodwork of the mansion is in need of painting and there are some signs of dry rot in the house, causing one part of the floor in a bed chamber to have fallen in. The water pipes supplying the house were also unreliable. [3]

The 3rd Earl of Kilmorey inherited the title in 1880 following Jack Francis’ death and spent a lot of time in Mourne Park. He married Ellen Constance Baldock in 1881. ‘Nellie’ Kilmorey was reported to have inherited ‘the Teck Emeralds’ from her lover Francis of Teck, the brother of Queen Mary.. The 4th Earl of Kilmorey who died in 1961 was the last Earl to live in the house and it has been passed down through the female line to the current owner Marion Needham Russell. Marion is a cousin of Richard Needham M.P., the 6th Earl of Kilmorey. [4]

Nellie Kilmorey and the family enjoying Mourne Park and the sunshine.

Over recent years Marion and her family had restored the house to some of its former glory and they used it as their home. Unfortunately a serious fire destroyed this beautiful house in May 2013, gutting it internally and destroying centuries of history.

This is a far cry from days gone by, when the mansion was used for extravagant parties, hare coursings, summer fetes and lavish entertainment for the visiting Earl and his guests. The house is steeped in history and can boast of royal guests such as King Edward VII and movie star Errol Flynn. [5]

Inside Mourne Park House

Photos belong to PRONI.

The inmates of the Kilkeel workhouse are buried along the river, with no visible markers indicating their graves. One infamous inmate, a body snatcher, William Hare is said to be buried here.

William Hare is reported to have been born in Newry between 1792 and 1804. He moved to Edinburgh where he met William Burke. Hare helped run a boarding house which catered for vagrants and elderly people.

When an old lodger died still owing money in rent, Burke and Hare decided to sell his body to medicine, making £7.10.0. They sold the bodies, to be dissected, to a Dr. Knox. The money they made spurred them on and they began digging up graves and selling off these bodies. The two men began eventually got sick of digging up corpses, and decided to  prey on the living instead. They mostly chose old or ill people, got them drunk and then strangled them. [1]

The two men became careless and carried away with their gruesome exploits, arousing the suspicion of neighbours. It is estimated that Burke and Hare murdered between 14 and 28 people, a crime spree now known as the ‘West Port Murders’. Hare testified against his accomplice Burke, who as a result was hanged in 1829.

The story goes that Hare decided to ‘lie low’ in Kilkeel, and lived out his last days in the Kilkeel Workhouse. His body is said to be buried in the Burial Banks

Another version of the tale claims that Hare did seek refuge in the workhouse until a Dr. Reid from Edinburgh recognised him, and told the local population of his crimes.

Hare apparently escaped to Carlisle where a lynch mob blinded him and threw him in a lime pit to die. Despite this fate, Hare is said to have escaped again and went to London where he died penniless in 1859.[2]

A rhyme capturing the chilling crimes of Burke and Hare goes as such;

'Up the close and down the stair,
In the house with Burke and Hare.
Burke's the butcher, Hare's the thief,
Knox, the boy who buys the beef.'[3]

** BURKE AND HARE UPDATE**

Anyone in a workhouse who was capable work was under no circumstances allowed to be idle. Men were employed with breaking stones, grinding corn, working on the land or any other kinds of manual labour. Women were given duties such as mending clothes, looking after children and the sick, washing and taking part in some manual labour.

A day in the workhouse normally started at 7am where everyone had to rise and dress, enter the hall for prayers and inspections, and then were given their breakfast of stirabout and milk. They were then made to work from here on until the afternoon where they had dinner of maybe potatoes or brown bread and soup. Food in the workhouse was not very exciting at all. Below is an example of what the inmates of Kilkeel Workhouse were fed in 1846, when the potatoes ran out;

‘ The following ‘dietary ordered for dinner instead of potatoes; on Sundays and Thursdays: men, women and children above 9 and under 15 got 3/4 lb. bread. Children above 2 and under 9 got 1/2 lb. of bread with soup made of barley as previously. For the remaining 5 days in the week men, women and children above 9 and under 15 got 7 oz.’s of Indian meal made into stirabout with 1/3 of a quarter of buttermilk. Children above 2 and under 9 got 3 and a 1/2 oz. of Indian meal made into stirabout, with 1/6 of a quarter of buttermilk.’[1]

Below is an example of what the Kilkeel Board of Guardians deemed ‘necessaries’ for an ensuing week;

60lb. bread

2lb. butter

34 qts. new milk

18lb. meat

300 qts. buttermilk

1 cwt. salt

5 ton oatmeal

1lb. tea  [2]

Inmates were not allowed back into their dormitories until around eight o’clock at night. Leisure time was not very common in workhouses, and the inmates were forbidden from playing cards, ‘any games of chance’ , smoking and drinking. When visitors came to see inmates, they were accompanied by the Master, Matron or officer.[3]

Some of the Staff of Kilkeel Workhouse

1859: Sarah Henderson matron of the Fever Hospital.[4]

1863: James Donaldson is master of the Kilkeel Workhouse.[5]

1870: Thomas Graham is Clerk to the Union of Kilkeel. Caroline Anderson is the schoolmistress to the workhouse and J. H. Clarke is medical attendant to the Poor Law Union.[6]

1880: Master of Workhouse is Samuel Ormsly and matron is his wife. Mrs Maxwell is matron of Fever Hospital and Relieving Officer is a Mr. J Mackintosh. The medical officer was Dr. Irwin and solicitor was John Hunter Moore. The chaplain for the Church of Ireland was Rev. Edward O’Brien Pratt, Presbyterian chaplain was Rev. George Nesbitt and the Roman Catholic chaplain was George Maguire.[7]

The Grave Diggers of Kilkeel Workhouse

Burying the inmates of the Workhouse might have been a grisly task but someone had to do it. Here are the names and wages of the grave diggers in June 1847;

George McManus           £0.15.0

James Wightman             £0.14.0

Henry McBride                  £0.8.0 [8]

The dead of Kilkeel Workhouse were buried in what is known as the ‘Burial Banks’. These are situated behind the Brethren Church on Mountain Road, along the river. The unmarked graves of the paupers and inmates can be found there.

The Irish Poor Law Act of 1838 divided the country into Unions and there was to be a workhouse for each Union. Many types of people could be found here, those too old or ill to support themselves along with those who could have lost their farms or employment and had no means of income. Women who had children outside of marriage were also sent to the workhouse, as unmarried mothers were shunned. People who were mentally ill or disabled were also housed here.[1]

Kilkeel Poor Law Union was declared on 29 July 1839 and covered an area of 127 square miles. The operation of this was overseen by a Board of Guardians.

The population within the chosen Union in the 1831 census was 26,833 altogether. It covered an area of 81,726 acres. The union included town lands of Kilkeel, Killowen, Ballykeel, Bryansford, Fofanny, Greencastle, Maghera, Mourne Park, Mullartown and Rostrevor.

The Kilkeel Workhouse was erected in 1840-1 on a 7.5 acre site on Newry Street, Kilkeel. The land was bought for £462.7.6, and £20 compensation was given to the occupying tenant. It was designed by George Wilkinson, a Poor Law Commissioner’s architect. His building was intended to house 300 inmates. The construction of the building cost £4050 plus £767 for fittings. The workhouse was approved on 16 August 1841 and admitted its first inmates on 1 September.[2]

Below is a map showing the location and layout of the Workhouse, dated 1930.

The building contained a waiting room and a board room for the Guardians on the first floor. The main block had male and female wings on either side of the masters quarters along with rooms at the rear such as a washhouse and bake house, an infirmary, an idiots ward and a chapel and dining room.[3]

During the famine which lasted from the mid 1840s-1851, a forty bed fever hospital was built on the site. This fever hospital survives today as Mourne District Hospital.

Evidence suggests the famine did not have as big an effect on Mourne as in the rest of Ireland. Looking at the minutes from the Board of Guardians meetings from the period demonstrates little sense of urgency or panic. A meeting in 1846 states that there are ‘no patients in the Fever Hospital’. On 15 July 1846 the Board discuss a letter from a Dr. Coole/Brooke. In this letter he claims it is necessary to provide ‘medicine and nutriment’ to the poor persons at their own homes, as they had a disinclination to enter the hospital. The Board responded by saying, ‘there are very few cases of fever in the District referred to and they are of opinion that there  is no necessity of providing medicine and nutriment at present.’ This suggests that Mourne got off quite lightly. There is no doubt life would have been more difficult, but they did not seem to get hit hard like the rest of the country. However the Board does mention the workhouse’s supply of potatoes ‘running out’ in one instance but simply replaces their food with bread, soup and stirabout.[4]

By 1847 things were maybe worsening. In a meeting on 7 April the board employs an Alexander Robinson ‘to draw patients to Fever Hospital in fever cart as follows: from… Kilkeel, Mourne Park, Greencastle, Ballykeel, Mullartown and Killowen at 3/6 for each journey; from… Fofany, Bryansford, Maghera, and Rostrevor at 7/6 for each journey.’ [5]

Most people believe the reason Mourne survived the famine so well was due to the fact that they had an understanding Landlord. During the famine the Earl of Kilmorey began building what would become known as the ‘famine wall’, to give people employment during the rough times. This is just one example of how he tried to help the people living in his estate.

The Kilmorey Arms Hotel was the main hotel of Kilkeel Town and has provided lodgings since it was built in 1843. An advert promoting the new hotel captures the excitement and expectations that came along with it, people were obviously very proud of it. It was opened and owned by John Shannon;

   ”Kilmorey Arms Hotel Kilkeel: John Shannon, truly grateful to his friends and the public for the very liberal support he has heretofore received, as an innkeeper in Kilkeel, respectfully begs to announce that he has opened the above splendid establishment, which has been recently built and fitted up by the trustees of the Earl of Kilmorey, under the immediate patronage of Viscount, Newry and Mourne M.P.’

The larder of the hotel is described as being ‘well supplied’. It boasts a cellar with the ‘choicest wines, spirits, ales, ports etc. etc.’.  There is a coach house and stables on the premises with an ‘ample supply of carriages, together with post as well as car horses… The mail car leaves Kilkeel every evening at half past six o’clock and arrives in Newry at fifteen minutes before ten. It leaves Newry every morning at five o’clock and returns to Kilkeel fifteen minutes past eight in the morning.’ [1]It has been estimated that the total cost of the building was £2000.[2]

Market Square, above, the Kilmorey ran along the right of here.

By 1899 the hotel was still in fulll swing, undergoing renovations and becoming one of the main lodgings for any visitors. In 1899 a Bazaar and Fete took place in Mourne Park and below is an advertisement for the Kilmorey Arms Hotel which was in the programme for the event;

‘This old established family and commercial hotel and been considerably enlarged and redecorated and entirely refurbished…with every accommodation and comfort for the convenience of guests.

Private rooms, ladies drawing room, spacious coffee room, commercial room and comfortable bedrooms.

The above is the principal hotel in the neighbourhood and the only one in the town fitted up with hot, cold and shower baths and electric bells.

The house is well situated in the centre of the town within ten minutes walk of the sea where there is a good bathing beach and private dressing boxes.

The terminus of Norton and Co.’s Tourist car service immediately adjoins the hotel and public cars are continually running from hence to and from  Greencastle, Rostrevor, Warrenpoint, Newry, Newcastle etc.

Charges moderate: special terms per week for boarding, and for gentlemen from Saturday to Monday.

Arthur Crory, Proprietor.’

The old courthouse in Kilkeel was situated in Kilmorey Square, stretching across what is now the top of Knockchree Avenue. It opened its doors once every three weeks on a Friday to hold court for minor offences and the Petty Sessions were held every 3 weeks on a Wednesday where ‘the number of outrages are very trifling.’[1] According to Samuel Lewis ‘ its jurisdiction extends over the whole of the barony of Mourne, which is included in this parish, and is the property of his lordship [Kilmorey], and pleas to the amount of £10 are determined either by attachment or civil bill.’ However the Courthouse is remembered as being the towns meeting place where dances, concerts and many other gatherings were held. One woman who remembers these functions well is a Betty Fairley (nee Orr) who fondly reminisces about spending her weekends here, socialising and participating in dancing competitions.

The Old Church of St. Colman’s

This is the 15th Century church from which Kilkeel derives its name; ‘Church of the Narrow Place.’ In 1622 it was described as a ruin.

Between 1836 and 1940 it was used as a school, supported in the beginning by Kildare Street Society and then later by Lord Kilmorey.Under Kilmorey, the schoolmaster was paid £31 and then the Rev. Close added to this a further £9.

Church of Ireland

Work on the church began in 1815 and cost £7000. This is equivalent to almost £300,000 in present day. A large sum of money was given by Lord Kilmorey to help cover some of the expenses. It was designed by Newry architect Thomas Duff. The transept was added in 1885 and the chancel in 1898.

The rector at this time was the Reverend Close. The fine church was grand and in good repair, but had no organ and was perhaps slightly too big for its congregation.

Clergy of the Church

• 1826: John Forbes Close
• 1883: Edward O’Brian Pratt
• 1887: Thomas Haines Abrahall
• 1890: Freemann Nathaniel Dudley
• 1898: Henry McKnight [info. from Hugh Irvine Collection]

St. Colman’s Roman Catholic Church

Before this chapel was built the people worshipped outside at the place called Massfourth. Work on the building began in 1811 and was completed in 1818. It was replaced in 1870 at a cost of £5000. The 2005 equivalent of this amount was roughly £230,000.

Mourne Presbyterian

The date stone of the church is 1720, extant from a meeting house in the upper part of the present graveyard. The church built in 1756 replaced the original in Ballymageough. It was t-shaped and thatched. In 1831 it was replaced costing £800 (equivalent of roughly £40,000) and the church looked like the present building. The first known minister was Rev. Charles Wallace.

Kilkeel Presbyterian

The congregation was being organised in 1822-23. In 1827 the Rev. John Allen was ‘called’ as its first minister. The church was then in Meeting House Lane.

From 1831 to 1874 the minister was the Rev. George Nesbitt and he was succeeded by the Rev. Robert White from 1875-1910. He lived in ‘Cromlech House’ and had a certain amount of medical knowledge. At this time the congregation did not have a manse. It is thought he got a lease of his house and farm from the Kilmorey Estate. Part of the farm was a field on the opposite corner from Knox’s Shop which was eventually sold by him to Mrs. Rooney, after whom the road was named.

The foundation stone of the new church was laid by the Countess of Kilmorey in 1894 and the building was completed and opened in 1897. The cost was £1006. This was roughly worth £60,000 in 2005. The pitch pine pews cost £45. Mr Eadie came as minister in 1911, staying until 1946.

The church was very poor in Rev. Eadie’s time and the congregation was very small. Mr Eadie had one son who died young, and two daughters. There was a chance of the church being closed in 1946. Money however appeared in the bank, as the Americans had rented the church hall during the war and they persuaded the Church to retain the congregation. They then called the Rev. G. S. McKeown as minister in 1946. He remained until 1954 when he was succeeded by Rev. S. L. S. Fullerton.

[Info. from Hugh Irvine Collection]

Moravian Church

The Moravian church and settlement was situated in Mourne Abbey, Kilkeel. The church was built in 1763 but sold in 1817 and used as a private dwelling.

The minister at the time was Brother James O’Harrill, who died in 1807. In 1832 they moved to Newcastle Street and built the church and manse.

Potatoes, potatoes, potatoes. Why was the potato grown and consumed on such a widespread scale in Ireland?

Potatoes were quite reliable and could produce a very good harvest (when not blighted). It was a vegetable which needed little care or attention when growing, so it was ideal for the majority of the population. The potato formed the basis of the Irish peoples diet, and could be used along with some diary produce such as milk. When the crop failed however, this caused major problems all over Ireland.

Other food stuffs such a oats, poultry and beef were in plentiful supply but these were expensive items and were shipped abroad by English landowners.

According to the report on the Kilmorey Estate by Octavius Knox, the main crops grown in the Mourne district by local farmers were potatoes, flax, oat and wheat. Potatoes would have been the principle meal for most people. An advantage of living in Mourne was it closeness to the sea. People would have benefited from this as they could live off the sea if need be, as well as the land.

Traditional foods such as Irish Stew were popular even in the 1800s. Praise for it was captured in this poem from the 1800s,

‘Then hurrah for an Irish Stew
That will stick to your belly like glue.’

Irish Soda Bread

In the early and mid 1800’s, rural Ireland did not have a strong tradition of bread made by using yeast. All baking was done in the home and, in addition to having limited baking supplies, time was often at a premium. The use of baking soda as a leavening agent was quick, effective and it produced a much more consistent result than yeast did. It caught on quickly and made soda breads a staple of the Irish diet until commercial bread production began. Irish soda bread is still popular with the Irish, as well as with people of other nationalities from all over the world.

The original soda breads contained nothing more than flour, buttermilk, baking soda and salt. The buttermilk was leftover from the butter making process and the bread was almost always served with freshly churned butter. Today, the bread often contain additional ingredients such as sugar, butter, currants or caraway seeds, to enhance the flavour of the bread. Soda bread is heartier than most yeast breads and goes very well with soups, stews and meat dishes. Modern soda bread mixes are available for those with a busy schedule and are easy to make with a delicious result.

Stirabout

Stirabout was a mixture, something almost like porridge. According to the Kilkeel Board of Guardians for the workhouse, they gave the inmates stirabout made from Indian meal and butter milk which was left over from the butter making process, therefore it was readily available and meant that nothing would be going to waste. This would have been a cheap meal, something which labourers/peasants would have eaten when potatoes were not available. It would have little flavour but it was still a meal.

Soup

Soup was a good, easily accessible and relatively cheap meal for most people. A farmer in Mourne would have had all the necessary ingredients due to being able to grow them himself on whatever land he had; potatoes, vegetables, barley etc. It was simple and easy to make, and if consumed with some homemade bread or soda bread, it would have been a filling and relatively taste meal. If you were lucky, there could have been some scraps of meal thrown in as well.

Shopping for Food

For those who did not have access to ingredients first hand from farming etc. there were many places in Kilkeel they could visit to acquire their daily essentials such as butchers, bakers, grocers etc. These stores would have been small and run by local people, nothing like the chains of supermarkets were are used to visiting today. Many stores would have had multiple uses, being a grocers and perhaps a bakery at the same time.

Below is a list of all the grocers in the Mourne area in 1870;

• Kilkeel: Thomas Baird, William Boyd, Neale Clarke, Arthur Crory, Robert Crutchley, Sarah Doyle, James Hagan, John Henderson, James McGinn, Moses Hill, George McKnight, Matthew Martin, Mary Minnis, James Morgan, Patrick Morgan, Ross Henry, Samuel Shannon, Maria Sloan, Samuel Woods.
• Ballymartin: William Annett, John Higgins.
• Ballygowan: James Cunningham.
• Annalong: John Gibney, James Robinson.
• Dunavan: James McCartney.
• Glassdrummond: Francis McGreevy.[1]

Here is a selection of the bakers present in 1870s Kilkeel;

Daniel Curran, James Doyle, James Hagan (who was also a grocer listed above and a spirit dealer), James McCartan, Thomas McKee, Matthew Martin, James Morgan, Henry Ross and Maria Sloan.

As you can see some of the bakers above overlap with the grocer section, demonstrating how some traders were taking on many different roles in order to supply the public with food stuffs.

This is a photo of Bridge Street.  If you look closely at the left hand side of the street you can see Morgan’s Bakers. It is the building with the lowest roof.

Bradshaw’s General Directory of Kilkeel for 1819 lists Owen Feran and Francis Keirnan as butchers.[2]

Price of Food in the 1800s

In 1817, 12 stone of potatoes cost 6s6d and 7lb of meal cost 2s0d.[3]

In September 1846 the Board of Guardians were able buy a ton of oatmeal for £18.10.0 and a ton of indian meal for £13.0.0. The Board also advertised for tenders of supplying bread of a ‘coarse quality’ for the workhouse in 1846. They were received by Alexander Gordon, Matthew Martin and James Morgan. Gordon’s came in at 1&3/8 per lb and Martin’s at the same, whereas Morgan’s was priced at 1&1/2 per lb. [4]

Even though the 1800s seems like a long, long time ago, children still had to go to school. Education has changed a lot since this period though, and children back in these days would have learnt very different subjects to what we are used to today, such as the ‘Three R’s’: Reading, writing and arithmetic. School children would not have worn uniforms and there would have been severe punishments for anyone who misbehaved…the cane! People in Kilkeel would have been very glad of the opportunity to educate their children, which is evident from the number of schools in the area and the number of attendees.

Children on their way to school barefoot, carrying turf for the fire.

In the report on the Kilmorey Estate of 1860, Octavius Knox names five of the main schools on the estate. They are as follows;

• Kilkeel: It was built in 1852 and is a mixed school under one roof. Henry Cook is the master, Maria McConnell is the Mistress of the Infant School and Isabella McConnell is the mistress of the Sewing School. He claims the school is in good repair.
• Annalong: built in 1850. The schoolmaster was J. A. Henry and the schoolmistress was Rachel Gordon. There was a master’s house under the same roof, all of which is in good repair.
• Cargenah: built in 1842 and the schoolmaster is David Gillespie. The masters house is also under the same roof and in fair condition. It was small and is reported to have served Catholic and Protestant children.
• Allicaul (Attical): was originally an old cottage converted into a school in 1846. The other part is occupied by schoolmaster James Heron.
• Mourne Park School: This is part of an old dwelling house which was converted into a schoolroom in 1840. The remained is occupied by schoolmaster James Chambers. Knox claims the schoolroom is too small for the number of pupils (around 100) and is also inconveniently situated within the walls of Mourne Park. The rest of the building houses the schoolmasters family, which is described as ‘inadequate accommodation’ for the 3 adult s and 2 children who were living there at the time.[1]

Knox reports that apart from the above problems all the schools were conveniently arranged, fitted their purpose and were very well conducted. They were well attended and were associated with the Church Education Society and annually visited by Inspectors.[2]

Along with these schools which were mostly built by the direction of Lord Kilmorey, there were other smaller establishments scattered over the country side;

• Cranfield: The school first opened in 1892 for boys. They came from Cranfield, Ballyardle, Benagh and Derryogue. The pupils on its opening were Thomas Annett, William Coffey, Isaac Coffey, Richard Nicholson, Charles Orr, Jno. Orr, Charles Stevenson, James Stevenson, Arthur Patterson, Thomas Hanna, Albert McKee, Robert H. Reilly, Henry Coffey, Jno. Coffey. The principal in 1893 was Mrs Isabella Orr.[3]

There were also schools at Ballinran, Ballyveaghmore and Bignian. A school was also held in the Old St. Colman’s Church under the support of Lord Kilmorey for a time. It was converted into a school in 1836 and housed 146 children.[4]

In an 1863 Valuation of Kilkeel, local schools and their values were listed;

• The National School House and yard beside Mourne Presbyterian Church. Valued at £11.
• The Church Education Society school house and yard in Market Place, Kilkeel. Valued at £15.
• The National School House in Ballykeel valued at £1.0.0.
• Ballyveaghmore Church Education School House, leased for Francis Chesney. Valued at £2.10.0.[5]

Hedge Schools

There were numerous hedge schools scattered around Mourne. They were ‘secret schools’ due to the strict laws against Roman Catholics, disallowing them from setting up and attending schools. Children of all ages were sent here. One local hedge school was situated in Derryogue.

Working at sea is something which Mourne men are renowned for, but in the 1800s some men chose to work away from the locality of Kilkeel. Working on large ships was a dangerous employ but it was a job which provided a steady income along with guaranteed meals and the promise of seeing the world. Two Kilkeel men who left their homes to venture across the oceans on large ships were John Boyd and James Alexander Beck.

Letters from John Boyd to his father David Boyd in Kilkeel.

John Boyd was working onboard The Venus.

• He wrote this letter from Belfast, 3 March 1816

‘I did not join the Venus to the Tuesday following [Sunday]. I do not think we will sail before this day eight days on.’

‘I was much surprised to see two boys from Derryogue on my going into the office…wanting to get bound to the sea which it was impossible for them to get done on account of so many boys being in the trade.’

John however put in a good word for them and they were put under his care on the Venus. The two boys from Derryogue were called Jack McConnell and Tom Burns. John wanted his father to write him before he left Belfast. He gives his best to his mother, family and the Green family, finishing the letter, ‘Your loving son, John Boyd.’

• From Belfast, 8 September 1816

John writes that he wished to see his father but will just have to wait until it ‘please God I come back again.’

He received some shirts from his father and is under ‘great many obligations for your kindness’ and hopes in time he will be able to repay him. He wishes his father to say no more about him not having to pay him back as he ‘would be but a very ungrateful son if [he] could not give more than that to [his] father.

He goes on to talk about an ‘awful scene’ on Friday last. It was in reference to ‘the execution of the two unfortunate men opposite the Castle wall in High Street.’ He said it was a wet day but you still could not move in High Street or Donegal Place with the military and crowds of onlookers. He observed that it seemed ‘the poor fellows [were] reconciled to meet their fate.’ They were buried at Knockbracken in one grave and he was told that it was the largest funeral ever seen in Belfast. The two men were reportedly executed for burglary and this was the last public execution to take place in Belfast.

John mentions meeting a Bob McKee and closes the letter with ‘and I remain your loving son John Boyd.’

• From Belfast, 1 January 1817

John tells his father that he has arrived safely back in Belfast Monday last after a short but very severe passage. He couldn’t write him from London because there was too much going on after the loss of two ships. He was also sorry about informing his father about the loss of the Kelly. All hands and 17 passengers were lost on Sunday past on the banks of Liverpool.

John tells his father that his friend from Derryogue, Tom Burns has left the ship to go home despite him trying to persuade him  otherwise; ‘I suppose he got frightened of the sea this last passage home. He can let you know all about me.’ He finishes this letter with the remark, ‘remaining your ever loving son to death, John Boyd.’

In all the letters John always asks about his family, Mrs Hallyday, Miss Vance and the Green family.

During his time at sea between May 1814 and February 1815 John visited London, Gosport, Gibraltar, Lisbon and Milford. His pay on board the ship was £3 per month.

The Diary of James Alexander Beck to Mary Ann McBurney of Derryogue during the voyage of the RMS Oroya which left London 23 November 1888.

The Pacific Steam Navigation Co’s RMS Oroya was built by Barrow Ship Building Co. and was designed for a sailing service to Australia. She was launched 31 August 1886 and later sold to the Royal Mail Line in 1906. She was renamed Oro for her final voyage and was broken up in Italy in 1909.

One man who was working on board this ship during one of its trips to Australia was Kilkeel man James Alexander Beck. He kept a daily journal of the day to day goings on aboard the ship for his wife Mary Ann McBurney from Derryogue. His voyage lasted from November 1888 to 4 January 1889. His writings can give us a sneak peek into what life aboard a large steam ship would have been like.

The first few entries tell us of the ship encountering many bad storms and he writes that most people were suffering from extreme sea sickness. He was very glad when they passed the Bay of Biscay as the worst part of their journey was now over. They were on their way to Gibraltar.

James spent Christmas Day at sea and joined in with the rest of the ship hands wishing one another a Merry Christmas. They wanted to make the day as pleasant as possible and some started to sing Christmas carols. They had a dinner of soup and potatoes with fresh pork and plum for their main, followed by a small pie. For dessert they had tea and bread with jam and then finished it all with a small bun.

His Christmas Day entry is very poignant and it is clear he was missing home; ‘I often think of home today and when I think of the past Xmas I spent with you… I can surely say that this one is the worst I have spent for years… We have gained nearly seven hours since we left so that one can almost tell on a day like this what you are doing.’

At the end of each diary entry John records the position of the ship. On Christmas Day they were at latitude 17.33 S, longitude 99.7 E and distance 319. This tells us that the RMS Oroya was somewhere in the Indian Ocean nearing the coast of Australia’s Western Territory.

On 31 December, New Year’s Eve, John writes about an outbreak of the measles, with nine new cases this day. He and all on board hoped that they would be put into quarantine so as not to infect the rest of the passengers. At half past midnight he joined with all the hands in singing Auld Lang Sine when they returned below to retire to their bunks.

On New Year’s Day he writes they were all simply happy to have reached the new year safely and were looking forward to the end of their journey. The ‘Scotch folk’ on board had a party that evening; ‘I was invited and spent a very pleasant evening. The best since I came on board…I may tell you that I am taken for a Scotsman by nearly all on board and as I have got back my Glasgowen tongue I can pass for one very well.’

On 2 January they anchored in Adelaide Bay but due to the measles they were not allowed on shore, apart from those who were bound for this port.

The last entry in this journal is dated 4 January 1889; ‘This has been an exceptional passage, there was neither birth, death nor marriage’. He counts himself lucky as he wasn’t seasick like many of the others and did not miss one meal since leaving London, something which he is very proud of! The ship docked in ports such as Melbourne, Adelaide and Sydney and finished its journey in Williamstown, Victoria.

Emigration was widespread in Ireland during the 1800s due to the promise of a better life on the other side of the Atlantic or further afield. The effects of emigration even effected small rural areas like Kilkeel, with sometimes entire families upping roots and leaving their homes to go to places like America and Australia. One family who left Ireland were the McDowell’s, moving to George Town in Carolina. Davison McDowell moved there with his mother and sister. Letters from Charles Lewis of Kilkeel to Davison give us a good insight into what it was like losing a friend to America and the ensuing curiosity about life in this far away land.

The postal service in the 1800s was nothing like it is today. It could take weeks or many months for the recipient to receive their letter, if they even got it at all. A lot could happen between the time a letter was written and received. Charles writes to his friend Davison telling him of the somewhat mundane happenings in his home land and enquires as to what kind of life America has to offer Irish emigrants; ‘beside that of being near your much esteemed self could you offer to a bachelor who might yet be among the emigrants of Ireland.’ Charles seems to be considering the option of emigration at the time of writing this letter. He wants to know what Davison’s ‘amusements’ are and how he was employed during the war.

The economic state of Ireland does not sound overly promising and local trade does not seem to be in good shape; ‘trade never was in my memory so dull as at present. Failures among our merchants [are] so common that hardly any are thought secure.’ The lack of employment and a fluctuating income was something which drove many people to emigrate. America promised abundant work to those who made it there. If times were hard in Kilkeel it would be difficult to find a reason to stay.

Charles misses his friend and  suggests him coming home to visit, encouraging him by stating that ‘perhaps it is destined you are to meet that compassionate female you are in quest of this side of the Atlantic.’

On a lighter note Charles tells Davison some good news; ‘our young people here are increasing and the country in a good deal gayer. We have got a new ball room built in town and have had some pleasant dances this spring.’ Something as simple as a dance or a place to meet friends is enough to cheer people up. There probably was not much to do in a small town like Kilkeel in the 1800s. Charles tells Davison he met his old friend at one of the gatherings; ‘your dancing acquaintance Mr Cleland was with us this winter and we had some fine meetings which past some dreary nights’.

He then goes on to fill Davison in on the local happenings, updating him on people’s health and social lives. A Thomas Nicholson was nearly killed by a fall from his horse in Warrenpoint but had recovered. Mrs Bankhead was in bad health and Widow Trimble was in good health and spirits living alone which her son is at school.

Charles was sending the letter to New York by a Captain Curran, nephew to Mr Henry Curran, Glassdrummond. He was the ‘master’ of the ship Samuel and ‘is a very pleasant, decent fellow. He has been a good deal among his Mourne friends while in port and he gave them fine entertainment on board his ship. I was one of the party. We spent a very fine day in a social, jovial  manner.’ Ships were the only form of long distance transport back in the 1800s and life at sea was a livelihood for many men. This ship sailed from Warrenpoint yet it is hard for us to imagine the hustle and bustle of the port, full of many people coming and going.

Charles is very curious about America, ‘I think I would like to hear more of America than I have even asked.’ He has to finish his letter however and doesn’t get a chance to ask any more questions as Captain Curran is sailing ‘tomorrow’ and he hoped to be at Warrenpoint before he departed so ‘I will bid you a good night at quarter past 12.’ Charles expected to hear back from Davison soon about the linen yarn which is apparently very cheap.

He closes his letter;

‘I remain with affectionate regard,

Your sincere friend,

Chas. Lewis’

The letter was addressed to;

Mr Davison McDowell

George Town

South Carolina

America

(Information from PRONI)

Charles Lewis of Kilkeel wrote several letters to his dear friend Davison McDowell, originally from Newry who emigrated to America. In these letters, Lewis is very curious about the life McDowell is leading over the water and seems to be looking for a good reason to emigrate himself. But who was Davison McDowell and  what became of him when he arrived in America? Did he live the American lifestyle those Irish emigrants dreamt of?

Davison McDowell is quite an exceptional example of how much life can change for the better after leaving Ireland. McDowell becomes a very wealthy plantation owner and a well renowned enterprising planter in the South. Lewis writes to him telling him of the day to day happenings in Kilkeel, which are surely mundane in comparison to the life McDowell was living at the time.

McDowell was a native of Newry who emigrated to America around 1810, joining other family members in Georgetown. His father James had settled in Southern Carolina in 1786 but died on the Pee Dee in 1787. His mother Agnes Davison McDowell arrived shortly after her husband’s death and not long after she married a Robert Kirkpatrick. Davison remained in Ireland with relatives to complete his studies before moving to the U.S.

McDowell was a very enterprising and well known planter in South Carolina. He acquired the Asylum Plantation in 1819 and owned it until 1836. He also owned the Lucknow plantation (Pee Dee, where he died) along with Rice Hope, Hoogley, Strawberry Hill, Springfields, Oatlands, Sandy Island and Woodville. As a plantation owner he was also the owner of many black slaves.

He married Mary Moore in 1822 but she died shortly after. He then married Catherine DuBose McCrea Witherspoon, widow of Robert Sidney Witherspoon. They had 8 children, 4 of whom died in infancy or early childhood.

McDowell died in 1842 at the age of 58, after leading what was surely a very interesting and colourful life. Things would more than likely have been extremely different had he stayed in Newry.

In 1701, James L’Armour reportedly killed his father (Edward) & pushed the body into the chasm known as L’Armour’s Hole.

L’Armour’s Hole is situated along the cliffs which form the North Eastern boundary of the parish of Kilkeel. L’Armour’s Hole forms a long cavity, extremely narrow, no more than 3 or 4 feet broad and about 40 feet deep. The waves beat in with a fury against the bottom. The following story in the 1836 Ordnance Survey Memoirs is how the cave got its name;

‘A son requested his father to proceed by and refresh themselves; they were

driving cattle at the time for shipping. Having left them at the side of the road

they retired to the place, the son assuring the father that the hole was worth

seeing, told him to lie on his stomach, so as he might see it to perfection. As

soon as the father did so, the inhuman wretch pushed him down; there are at

present several red marks on the rocks to been seen yet… It is also said that the

body floated to Newcastle where it was discovered before the son arrived. The

cause of his committing such a crime was in order that he might get his

father’s land; it is reported that he met the fate he justly deserved.’

Another version of the tale tells us that Kilkeel woman Mary O’Hagan caught the attentions of James. James’ father apparently disapproved of the relationship which is why he met the fate he did. When Mary found out what James had done she went mad & died a few months after his execution in c.1744.

The chasm is also known as Maggie’s Leap, named after a woman who used to jump across with a basket of eggs on her head.